The Ever Familiar Drawing Board

Hello everyone!!!
Looking back at my contest entry photos spurred me into three things: (1) to start hitting the exercise/healthy food regimen more diligently, (2) to add some pizzazz to my lingerie collection, and (3) to adjust my pattern yet again. I decided to start with number three LOL.
So far to date, I have never sewn the same bra pattern twice. I've always tweaked some to almost all of the pieces in an attempt to achieve the elusive "perfect fit". The following are the newest alterations.

For the lower cup pieces, the apex has been lifted slightly and shifted toward the center bridge about an inch. An inch at my size isn't much of a change, but I think it will make a difference. The cross cup seam curvature was also altered to try to correct a persistent flat spot.

For the upper cup pieces, I lengthened the cross cup seam to match the lower cup and also moved the apex towards the center. Then I shifted the strap connector inward and shorten the armsyce to better prevent side boob spillage.

I'm still experiencing some underboob fallout from the lower center area of the bridge. My suspicions are that the underwires are rotated too low/close. So the underwire seam was rotated up and out on the bridge and side wing while keeping the same general band length/shape at the bottom band.
My last alteration was to the back wing. I've had a difficult time tightening the armsyce into the back while trying to contain back fluff. I should probably change back to a leotard style for that purpose, but for now the straight back is working for me. After scouring the internet, I came across an article about altering a RTW bra by pinching a dart out of the back wing without changing the bottom length. This change can cause a slight "skip" in the upper band. The end of the side wing was raised to accommodate that.
So there you have it. All of the alterations for my next draft. Keeping my fingers crossed! Ooh and here's a sneak peek of my upcoming color palette; my sister dubbed this "Ice Cream Shoppe"!

I'm back! And hopefully more consistently LOL

Hello everyone!!!
I've been on a truly long hiatus from here. I guess it should be considered a do over  than a return. Much has occurred during the interim. Laid off, new job, new living space, new new new. But I digress.
My real reason of return is that I feel energized and validated in my craft. Recently I participated in the first Bust Out the Bras contest sponsored by Bra Makers Supply (located in Hamilton, Canada). Although I didn't place, I made honorable mention for my entry :) Being recognized by someone in your craft/field that you admire is the best boost of confidence. Also it makes for strong motivation for next year's possible entries!

The contest asked sewists from around the world to make an least one bra in the one of four categories: original, best trimmed, cut and sew foam, and modified. I entered under modified due to my bra making beginnings deconstructing a RTW bra but they ultimately categorized me under original. Maybe because it looks nothing like the RTW now. Anyhoo, here's my entry (please excuse the jiggly bits!):

My design, pattern making, and construction have truly progressed since my first foray into this. Everything is nearly encased in the cups. The band sits mainly where it should. The uplift and overall shape are much better. So close!!! I'm really pumped to test my new pattern drafting with the adjustments I need. That will be covered in my next post.
Until then, HAPPY SEWING!

*P.s. you should really check out the other entries of the contest. They were amazing!